Tuesday, November 22, 2011

Mama and Me :)


A wonderful weekend, and on to an equally amazing week, although in a completely different way.  Thursday night, almost as planned, Mom made it to Macerata.  She ended up catching a later train, after experiencing more than her fair share of travel chaos.  So… while I waited, I cleaned up a little (but forgot to dust…), arranged for a taxi to meet us at the train station, and made up some potatoes, carrots and celery for her to eat when she got here.  Then I walked down to the train station and waited… for a while, because her train was 10 minutes late and I was 10 minutes early.  Finally, though, her train pulled up, and she got off, and we hugged each other and cried for a few minutes. 

We walked through the station and hopped into our taxi.  I showed her a little bit of the city all lit up with its night time lights and things.  We got to the hotel, and the little city streets inside the walls were just packed with people as they often are at that hour.  We sat and chatted, I gave her a bottle of water, and her potatoes, which were not exactly warm anymore, but they were indeed “real food.”  After that little bit of nourishment, we determined that the proper next step was coffee and gelato.  So we headed out once again into the streets to get some…but this time, there was almost no one out.  It is a fascinating little phenomenon where around 7 PM you can hardly move in the streets, and by 9 PM they are deserted. 

Mom’s first gelato was chocolate, and in my opinion from one of the best gelato places in town.  After that delicious little snack, we headed up to my apartment, for a mini tour.  I feel like I should have her as a “guest writer” so that she can describe her own experiences  to you… I feel a bit silly telling you how much she loved her gelato, and how she loved our apartment. 

Friday, I let her sleep in, but turns out she woke up earlier than I expected.  So we went out for cappuccino and cornettos (croissants).  We went to a little place called Pathos, that I really love (even though it is the place where I ended up with warm milk instead of tea recently…)  The tables in the restaurant have literary quotes printed on them and they also sell books. The books are more of a side item, but it still gives it that classic coffee house feel.  Mom was so excited about her cappuccino’s taste and price (half the price they were in Amsterdam in February) that she wanted a second!

After coffee, we walked over to the cathedral and the small basilica next to it.  I gave her short versions of Filiberto’s lectures on each place, pointed out various art and architectural elements and so forth.  Then we sat in the Piazza and waited for the bells to chime.   Mom and I share a love for church bells. 

That afternoon, we wanted to convert some American dollars to Euros… which  turned into quite an adventure.   We started at a bank, and they told us to go away, that the only place to do that was the post office.  So we headed down to the post office.  I was a bit nervous that they would not be open, because it was getting close to the hours of afternoon “riposo” but we got lucky and they were still open.  Then we waited in “line” or until someone appeared available and open to helping us. 

So I told the woman, in Italian what we were trying to do.  She didn’t seem pleased initially, and after conferring with a coworker handed me a form, this seemed to be a good start.  I began to fill out this form, and she took our “documents” mom had her passport, but I did not, but I did have my Italian Government Issue permit of stay card, and this seemed to satisfy her. I thought maybe we were going to make it out of there just fine. Wrong.  The woman looks at me and says, “Carta fiscale.”  And I do not understand what she means, and so I ask her to repeat.  She repats, and I still don’t quite get it.  She hands the form back to us with an X next to the place where the official is supposed to sign, and point to this line and ask her if we are supposed to sign again.  She does not really answer, so mom signs again, and we hand the form back.  Now the postal worker I getting irritated, she says “Carta Fiscale, dove la scrive?”  Now she wants to know where we wrote it, hard to do when you don’t know what it is.  She looks back at us demanding this item, and I whip out my dictionary, and I ask her to write it for me so I can look it up easier… she does not, I ask again, this time with a little pantomime, and then I tell her that I do not know what it means.  This is nearly the end of all of us as she declares (her volume has been increasing throughout this interaction) that “Carta Fiscale è carta fiscale!!!”  Thank you, ever so much for clearing that up for me.  Once upon a time my 3rd grade teacher told us not to use the word in the definition (I’m assuming that also applies to not using it for the definition)  Finally, another customer notices our plight, takes pity, and with his little bit of English explains to us that this is a card given to Italians at birth, and that we don’t have something like it in the USA.  He then tells this to the postal worker who is not at all pleased.  In the end, we gave her our driver’s licenses… she gave us our money, and we RAN. 

After such an ordeal, it was time for a  walk in the park.  We tried to find a little hidden café that I have been wanting to go to, but we couldn’t find it… so we just wandered for a while.

Saturday, we went to Assisi-and thanks to me-had to run to the bus station.  I woke up 5 minutes before we were planning to meet to walk to the bus, so we rushed.  But we made it!   One very long, warm bus ride later we were dropped off in Assisi, but not in the city center or really anywhere near it, so then we had to call a cab.  But once we finally got there, it was just as beautiful as I remembered, and mom loved it too.   We walked through the basilica of San Francesco, and then did some shopping in the town.  There were lots of shops with beautiful lace, some with pottery and ceramics, and some really interesting clothing shops.  And then there were also multitudes of shops with little prizes related to San Franceso, of course.

Saturday night we went out for a nice dinner, and split it in what is a classic style for my friends and I.  One person orders a “primi piatti” which is the first course, basically pasta.   And the other person orders a “secondi piatti” which is a meat dish, and you each eat half and trade.  That way you can each get your balanced meal at half the price and without needing to be rolled out of the restaurant.  I took her to a little place that I had eaten before with the best risotto known to mankind.  It is an herbed risotto with flower petals, thyme and marjoram.  Profoundly delicious.  We also got a pork chop to share that had a very gentle sweet flavor to it. 

To round our Saturday night, we had a little sleepover at the hotel.  We stayed up late gabbing (which we did a few of the other nights as well, but returned to our own respective beds)  Being able to just talk to someone without worrying about losing my internet connection is definitely something that I miss.

Sunday, we went to Civitanova for the beach, no good Michigan girl could come this close to a body of water without touching it.  And she did.  She went in up to her ankles, but it wasa bit too chilly to go farther than that.  But the beach in Civitanova is full of really cool stones and beach glass, and so we spent a very long time there sifting through.  After a while though, the coastal wind did start to chill us, and so we headed into town to find a little something warm to drink.  On the way however, we got distracted by a pretty storefront… and we went in.  As soon as we walked in we both gasped when we saw a rack, but for different reasons.  I was shocked to see a little sign in pink highlighter announcing that the items on the rack were 50 % off, they do not do enough sales in this country, and so I get incredibly excited when I find one.  But what mom saw, I also saw a moment later.  A beautiful coat, on that very sale rack… and I was in love, so of course I had to try it on.  And it fit, and so, now it is in my closet behind me.  We may have set a record for not being a mission shopping, finding something, trying it on and buying it.  Fairly certain it was less than 10 minutes. 

Sunday night we met Giulia, my language partner at Maga Cacao.  Because mom could not possibly come and go from the country without having had Maga Cacao and met Giulia.  Mom got a basic milk chocolate hot chocolate, “con la pana”  which basically means, with a mountain of delicious whipped cream above your pure chocolatey goodness.  We talked with Giulia for a couple hours, and it was all quite lovely, and we covered a wide variety of topics.  Mom even let Giulia and I have our little Italian lesson that is supposed to be part of the Tandem partner deal. 

Monday morning, I had class, so mom took herself out for a cappuccino.  Then we met up when I was done and ate some lunch.  We had a while then to wander and shop, which seemed like a brilliant plan until I remembered the number of stores that are closed on Mondays, period, and the fact that there is riposo from basically 1-4.  However, we did get a cup of gelato, and managed to wander around until it was more stores were open, and had some fun shopping.  After shopping, I had class again, and then we had Thanksgiving dinner.  Delicious.  The entire group went, plus all of our teachers, and a couple other people connected with the program and the university.  We sat at a table with a few other girls from the program, and Professor Antonio Zampa.  He is very cool, and fun to talk with.  I don’t have him for class though sadly.  But I did find out that he once came to Michigan to play Italian folk music on guitar and came through Alma, didn’t stop in at the college though.  But it was funny to find someone on this side of the world that had actually been to our little town. 
Today, after class, mom and I went out for one last little lunch together.  We each had a plate of spaghetti alla carbonara, and a tiramisu.  There were three things that I felt she absolutely had to eat before she left: 1) Maga Cacao (check) 2) Tiramisu (check) and 3) a Kinder Bar (bought at a vending machine, and given as a train snack).  Kinder bars are similar to Kit Kats, but lighter, better, and with hazelnut cream inside.  After our lovely lunch, I had class again, but then we called for our taxi and headed down to the train station.  We got the ticket for Roma Termini, and then I helped her onto the train and double checked with the conductor that it was going where we wanted, you can never be too careful with these Italian trains.


To finish off my night, I went out for a great dinner with the other four Michigan students.  We talked about proper hand geography, and hometown favorites, over really great food (ravioli with prosciutto for me)

But now I should really get to bed!   Early train to FLORENCE tomorrow!!!!!

Home in less than a month!!!  Crazy how time flies!

Monday, November 14, 2011

Settled in my Italian town.


It is still amazing to me the way that time works.   One day I was sitting in my room thinking about something, and I was literally thinking that I had been gone since last Christmas… no not quite dear, just since Labor day weekend, same difference right?  Some days are so incredibly full of adventures that they feel like they lasted a week when I get to the end of them, yet while I am going through them, they feel so fast.  Its fascinating to me…  But all in all, I feel very comfortable and settled here in Macerata, It took a while, and I think I have been settled for a while, but I just didn't notice.  It just kind of snuck up on me.  And even if I am "settled"  I still love to try to find new places (which is really quite easy) And, believe it or not, I miss snow.  Like a lot.  I think it might be because it is still a bit chilly in the apartment, and its chilly outside, and everyday I wake up thinking that it will have snowed, and it hasn’t.

So some of the things that have been filling my week lately, I had another cooking class at Gina and Marc’s.  This time we learned to make gniocchi.  This stuff will change your life.  It is a potato pasta, but basically it is just a little ball of delicious carbs, that you then gently coat (not smother) in some sort of sauce, like a pesto or various others.  We made had it with a gorgonzola cream sauce, and I got the opportunity to show off that I can really be a bottomless pit if I want to… There was gniocchi left (we made a lot… ) and Marc proclaimed that he did not have the intention of throwing any away, and with the sauce on it, it really wouldn’t keep well… so obviously I had to be kind and help out.  It was completely worth it. 

We have been learning all sorts of new verb tenses in Italian, before our break I felt kind of like we had hit a wall and weren’t really getting all that much new material, but now it’s flying at us.  But I love learning it, and being able to have real conversations with people.  I don’t always understand everything that is being thrown at me (they talk so fast, and I am pretty sure a 4 year old has a wider vocabulary than I do, but at least I can conjugate my verbs…?)  but I do have the ablity to speak and respond if I can get someone to slow down for me!  And I can almost understand the choruses for a couple of Italian songs that I have downloaded!  Progress, even if it's small

Thursday night I went to a little concert at a theater here. It had a gorgeous neo classical ceiling, with winged victories in the corners.  (Fun fact, the greek word for victory is “nike”)  It was a quintet: piano, cello, violin, flute, and clarinet.  They played an assortment of modern “classical” music.  The theatre we were in was fascinating.  Like so many buildings in this city, it was bigger inside than should be physically possible.  It is like walking into the wardrobe or wonderland sometimes as you walk into a little door, and all of the sudden you are in this huge space that you swear based on your knowledge of he surrounding city “block”  should not be physically possible. (I don’t know what else to call the “blocks,” but I feel like the term block gives the impression of regular geometric organization and that just does not exist)  But the concert was quite cool, a few pieces leaned more toward “interesting”  and after a few minutes I had had my taste and was ready to move on, but the rest of the concert was wonderful.  For me, if you have flute, cello and piano in the same song, it can be quite hard to go wrong (perhaps I am a bit biased towards the aforementioned instruments… but you never really know…)

Friday we went to Loretto, just a short bus ride away, and home to an absolutely astounding church.  Legend states that in the year 1297, a small house was deposited on a public road near Loretto, and that house was said to be the childhood home of the Virgin Mary.  It was in this very place that the angel appeared to her and told her she would have a Son.  Word spread, and pilgrims began to flock to Loretto to leave treasures for the Virgin as offerings of thanks for her intercessions on their behalf.  This treasure began to grow, and soon a fortress was needed to protect it from thieves.  Later, a church was built around that fortress, and it is incredibly beautiful.  I actually got tears in my eyes walking in.  There are small chapels on the sides for different countries where a priest or monk will wait to hear confession in various languages.  Each chapel has its own unique décor, and the church as a whole is just filled with color from floor to soaring ceiling.  Filiberto then took us on a little walk around the walls of the city, and we all kind of wondered why… they didn’t seem all that special, however, we soon found out that the same architect that designed them designed the palace where we have class, and this makes them highly significant.

Sunday, I went to mass, and I was quite proud of myself because I figured out that the priest was speaking on the parable of the talents, I was not really sure what his take on the story was, except that he got much more impassioned than last week... but I was proud that I could at least make out what story it was!  That night Chelsea, Lisa and I made pancakes and home fries.  Our interesting kitchen situations, and the lack of utensils created what I thought was a dilemma when it came to flipping though…no spatula.  But, luckily for us, Chelsea is a certified hands free pancake flipper.  I am not kidding.  I don’t care if she has the actual piece of paper or not (but I trust her that this exists…for whatever reason)  But she is awesome at flipping the pancakes in the skillet with just a flick of the wrist. 

I also wandered around the monthly flea market and saw several accordions, I might just add that to my list of instruments to learn, so far that list really only has harp and piano (at least a bit more proficiency) so I think there is definitely room for one more.  But the flea market has tons of really cool antiques and things if you are patient and dig around a bit.  It felt like one of my wonderful weekends wandering East Town antique shops and then going to Global Infusion, except no chai tea here (not any where that I can find, and trust me, I have looked)

Fun facts for the week:
1) there is a brand of canned vegetables here called “Annalisa”  I plan to buy a can of them and save the label.
2) It took 3000 oil lamps and 3000 candles to light the theatre of Versailles for one show.  One candle was approximately equal to the wages of 1 blue collar worker for a week.  Aren’t you glad we have light bulbs?
3) The magic of a Stradavarius violin is actually mostly myth. 
4) There is nothing like a fair trade chocolate festival and a flea market full of antiques to remind me of home.
5) Thursday evening (early afternoon in Michigan) I will be waiting at the train station for my mom, and I cannot wait.


Monday, November 7, 2011

I can't think of a witty title this week....


This last week has been pretty relaxed, but having 2 days of holiday helps with that.  I spent the weekend hanging out, having a movie marathon with a couple of friends, and snuggling under blankets for warmth since we weren’t allowed to turn our heat on until November 1st.  It was fantastic.  Monday, my roommates got back from Paris, and it was nice to have some company around the apartment again.  It was incredibly quiet bouncing around here by myself. 

Tuesday, November 1, is a national holiday in Italy, all saints day.  Everything is closed.  (with the exception of a few tabacchi shops, which is basically like 7-11, but with a little less selection…)  Now I knew that there was a holiday weekend coming, so I bought a little extra food, and had enough to make it through the day, not in any way that was grandiose, but I did have some sources of nourishment.  Erin and Carlye had very little… so we stood around in the kitchen taking inventory of what was there, and how we could possibly spin it into something edible.  We also had not figured out HOW to turn our heat on yet…  so with inventory taken we came to the obvious conclusion that instead of making lunch, which would have been: pasta, olive oil and a little bit of fresh grated parmesean… we should make cookies!

Erin in Carlye had stayed in a house of family friend’s in France, and so had access to a real kitchen (complete with measuring cups, a vital tool ours lacks) and they made soft, chewy cookies, which we wanted to try to make because our last batch was a bit crunchier than we would have liked.  But… we didn’t have all the ingredients, and actually, we didn’t really have all the ingredients for my family’s chocolate chip cookies… so what did we decide to do?  Cut our losses and make egg free cookie dough. Brilliant.  This process took much of lunch time, and then we ate it… and so lunch was just kind of glossed over in sugary goodness for the day.  But it was a holiday, so obviously this was just fine.

Wednesday we finally started classes again!   It was great to see everyone and hear about their adventures.  And Wednesday night we had another cooking class “Taglietelli con cavolfiore e fughi”  Which is a pasta with cauliflower and mushrooms, and it was delicious.   Yes, I did just admit that a dish with mushrooms was delicious.  Ironically, Marc does not like cauliflower, and this is the only recipe he has found where he can tolerate it, and I do not like mushrooms and this is one of the first recipes I have ever tasted where I found them palatable.  Incredible.  But I didn’t really get to eat much, just a little sample because I had to run to dance class.  I am actually starting to understand many of the dance words in Italian, and I am loving class.  We are learning a bit of choreography to a fun song called “Betty” by Brooke Fraser.  There are 2 other girls from my program in the class, and we work on the dance together outside of class sometimes as well. 

Thursday, we had our professors, Marc and Gina, over to our house for dinner.  It was a little intimidating because Marc is such a good cook, but it turned out great!  Carlye and Erin made a risotto all Milanese, which is a risotto flavored with saffron, and lots of parmesean.  We also had some broccoli and carrots, a little caprese salad (cherry tomatoes cut in half with apiece of mozzerella and some fresh basil, I like it because it looks like the Italian flag…)  And then we served some clementines for dessert.  It was lots of fun to sit around and chat with them over delicious food.

Friday, we had a three hour Italian class to make up for the holiday earlier in the week… and then there was an excursion to Tolentino, a small town near here.  However, Thursday I was feeling the precursors to a cold… and by Friday, I definitely had one.  Although I never checked it, I am fairly certain in hindsight I was also running a bit of a fever.  After Italian class, I came home, made a little soup, and was going to lay down for a little while.  I asked my roommates to check on me a little bit before it was time to go on the excursion.  When they came in I decided it would be best if I just stayed home.  I proceeded to sleep for 4.5-5 hours.   I continued to mainline clementines, Emergen-C, and I boiled the Clementine peels to make a tea that is also high in vitamin C for the next couple days, and today I feel much better. 

Sunday, Lisa, Lindsay and I walked to a church that is outside the city walls a ways, and I loved it.  It is the first church I have been to where there is actually music. A couple of the songs had some nice easy "Alleluia" and "Hosanna" type choruses that I could actually catch on to. Also, there were lots of families with adorable young children, and the priest spoke clearly and slowly enough that I could actually understand every 4th word or so.  I am planning to go to that one more now, it is about a 20 minute walk, but its an easy walk (until I get back to the walls and have to climb back to the top of the hill) but it’s worth it.

Counting down the days until I get to show my mom the Italian Experience!!!  11.

Also, here is the link to the pictures of my trip.  Enjoy!
http://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.10150906521470705.751729.703125704&type=1&l=ca089c223c

Buonagiornata and Stay Healthy!

Saturday, October 29, 2011

Quintessential Serendipty


Sunday morning, Chelsea and I left for Bolzano.  Our first train went to Civitanova (and this time it was actually a train, unlike on Saturday)  Our second train was to Bologna, and it was delayed by about a half an hour…. Which tends to make a layover that was under 40 minutes a bit tight.   The train made up a little time as we went… but it was still late.  We arrived in Bologna, and began frantically trying to figure out which Bin/track we had to get to for our next train without having to run all the way into the main station and then back to the tracks.  After a few moments of searching, we asked a conductor, who told us our next train was departing from Bin 1 West… We were currently positioned at a Bin in the central section… brilliant. 

So, we ran down the stairs and followed the signs through the labyrinth that lies beneath Bologna Central Station… I have not been in a train station as nuts as this one before.  BUT we made our train, with a few minutes to spare.  This train had some fascinating people on it, including but not limited to a woman with her pet ferret in a carry case, and a man who stood up several times to tuck in his bright purple dress shirt while talking to himself…he also continued to talk to himself while sleeping.

We got some awesome views of the mountains from the train.  I made a few attempts at pictures, but we shall have to see how well they turned out, I haven’t gone through all of them yet.  I am figuring out that especially in regards to the mountains and other pretty things, I need to stretch my vocabulary muscles a bit more, because I keep thinking that they are just indescribably beautiful, but that’s not true.  There are words, I just can’t locate them in my brain currently.   And I am not sure that my pictures even do it justice… so I am in a bit of a dilemma.

Anywho, made it into Bolzano, and walked over to our hostel, in an ideal location about 2 blocks from train station.  We got ourselves settled in a bit and then asked if there was anywhere open that we could go for dinner (something that can be difficult to find on a Sunday evening)  The concierge gave us a few suggestions, and we set off.  The restaurant we ended up at had a lovely cabin like feel, except for the fact that they were playing mostly American pop music on the radio, which created some interesting texture in the atmosphere.  Bolzano was part of Austria until 1960, and is a bilingual town, Italian and German.  The German influence up there is very strong, and it was refreshing to spend some time in a “different world.”  We ordered a chicken cutlet and fries, and some squash ravioli, and split both dishes.  We followed this with a warm apple strudel that would rock your world. 

Bolzano is so bright and colorful!  Well compared to Macerata at least, now don’t get me wrong, I love my beautiful walled city, but I didn’t really notice how little color there is on the exterior of the buildings until I got up to Bolzano, where the streets are filled with gorgeous Austrian style pastel colored buildings.  It felt so quintessentially European to me, right down to the men playing accordion in the street.  There is a fresh fruit and veggie market in the street, everyday except Sunday.  And, on top of fresh fruits and veggies, fresh chestnuts, roasted right before your eyes… over a large drum of hot coals, but close enough to an open fire to count for me.  Chelsea and I split a bag of these everyday, and let me tell you, not much compares to the deliciousness of a warm chestnut on a cold day, I had no idea how awesome these were.

Monday, we spent the whole day wandering the streets of Bolzano, since most of the museums and such were closed.  We had a typical lunch for this part of the country, which consisted of 2 frankfurters and a large round roll, all of which you basically just tear apart and eat with your fingers.   We walked from one side of the city to the other, and not in the most direct path.  But we also, found our way to one of the city’s three cable cars.  Which we proceeded to take said cable car up the mountain, and the views were spectacular.  We walked around the little town that was at the top of the hill for a little while and then headed back down. 

On our way back down the river walk, we began to notice something peculiar about the benches… it seemed that there was a backrest in the middle, but it leaned to one side or the other to make benches that could face either direction… there also did not appear to be a pattern to which benches would face which way, not as though the designers thought, “the views are better this way from here…”  After a couple minutes of discussion, we decided to investigate for ourselves, and discovered that these benches were actually reversible! You can actually push the back rest so that it leans a little bit to one side or the other, and then comfortable sit on whichever side you please (unless of course one of your bench-mates disagrees… but nothing’s perfect) Genius…

That night for dinner, when we told our waiter that we would not be having salad, just a pizza, he took our salad forks away…apparently quite afraid that two American girls would commit the cardinal sin of eating pizza with a salad fork.  This sparked a sudden inspiration that there should be an appropriate fork with which to eat pizza, since that seems to be the expectation here.  We decided that such a fork would need sharp tines, especially for the crisper crust often found on Italian pizza.  There should also be personal pizza cutters for patrons, because the knives, well they just don’t cut it.  Our study of specifically purposed silverware was actually continued at dessert, when we were given a special spoon with which to eat our tiramisu.  Most remarkable about this spoon was the small divot on one edge of the bowl, perhaps to aid in “cutting” through the lady fingers.

Tuesday, we awoke early (by college kids on vacation standards) with the best of intentions and not the best nights of sleep (the hostel was HOT, and the beds/pillows aren’t in my top 10 best list)  We ate our more northern style breakfast, and then went to grab some groceries in the market to make ourselves dinner.  And then we headed off for a day of museums and castles in the rain.  After our usual bit of mild disorientation, we made it to the ice man museum.  In 1990, a corpse was found in the mountains, about 60 miles outside of Bolzano.  Within the first days of the discovery, several theories were launched about who this could be, the first being an Austrian music professor who went for a hike in 1941 and never came home, another theory was that this corpse was somewhere between 500-3000 years old, another was that it was a World War I deserter, a mercenary from the time of Frederick of the Empty Pockets, which is approximately 1382 (I have no idea who that is, but it is an awesome name), but finally it was decided that he was a prehistoric native of the Otz Valley, somewhere between 5350-5100 years old.  An Austrian journalist dubbed the “poor, shriveled carcass”  that everyone was always talking about “Ützi” and the name stuck, despite the predictions of his bosses.  Ützi has been a fascinating case for scientists of all sorts.  Studies have found that he suffered from arthritis, atherosclerosis (too much animal fat in his diet they think), that he had a distressed immune system, and that he had some other sort of chroin disease that they have not been able to determine.  He was also a murder victim, and has been in the news more recently as the world’s oldest unsolved crime.

After that we attempted to find the Merchant Museum and failed… but we decided to consult our maps/guidebooks again back at the hostel and try again tomorrow.  Then we headed to the Museum of Modern and Contemporary Art, the interior of which reminded me a bit of the art institute of Chicago…but not nearly as cool art wise.  There were only about 2 dozen pieces in the museum, and we were done there after about half an hour.  None of the art particularly spoke to me… but they did have a really awesome guest book, it was a wooden park bench with a sharpie tied to it, and you could sign the bench.  My inner child always loves a good chance to write on something that I normally would not be allowed to write on.

After the museum, it was more shopping and more chestnuts, and then we stopped in a little chocolate shop, hoping for a cup of something to warm us up, but she appeared to only serve coffee.  However, we did buy a few flavors of hot chocolate that I am excited to try!  Then, we headed back to the hostel to dry off, warm up, and make dinner.  

Our last day, we caught the free shuttle out to one of the local castles, Castello Roncolo (or Schloss Runklestein in German), a really, really awesome castle I might add.  There were lots of mostly in tact frescos, and rooms full of artifacts from the owners over the centuries.  Being in a castle is a crazy thing, because you look all around you, at all the rooms, the frescos, the high walls, and you think, “this was someone’s house…” The frescos of this castle are unique because they are some of the most well preserved secular frescos we have.    There is such an abundance of frescos that is castle has been nicknamed “The Illustrated Castle.”

Before we left, we ate lunch at the little restaurant in the castle.  Once again, some lovely northern food.  I ordered a wurst of some sort that came with sauerkraut and a couple balls of potato, all of which was quite delicious.  Chelsea had never tried sauerkraut before, and so she tried some of mine, but was not a fan, which was fine, more for me. 

Afterwards, we wandered a few shops again, I love the way they have their shops set up.  They have maintained the old arches and barrel vaults throughout the city center, with their white walls, and filled them with shops.  In some ways, it felt ultra modern, which was such a pardox, because those arches have been there for centuries, but the feeling of walking into a room that is more of a half cylinder, than a box, makes me feel like I have just walked into the future…. Cheesy, but whatever.  It was really cool.  It made shopping a whole new kind of exciting, because every store we walked into I wanted to say, “Wow, I love what you have done with the place.”

It was still a bit dreary out, but we were going to take our last cable car ride anyway.  Our roommate, Elena, who is from the south of Italy came along with us.  The three of us chatted the whole way up, only being interrupted by how incredibly beautiful the mountains really are.  Elena is just so sweet, it was great to just chat with someone about the world and the different corners of it we come from.  When we got to the top of this mountain, after passing through a couple layers of clouds, it was still managing to rain… so we took our little selves into a café for some hot chocolate.  We sat in the café and talked about traffic in Italy, parking in Italy, about the States, we drew little illustrations on our napkins, and munched on some little crackers.  Then we hopped back in the car and headed down the mountain again.  Technically, this cable car is supposed to be exceptionally beautiful at sunset, but it was a little too cold and rainy, to wait for sunset, and also cloudy enough that it might not have been as pretty.  But it was getting close to sunset when we came down, and the views were still incredible.  The clouds wound through the valley below us like the rivers that carved it. 
There is something so peaceful about watching the way that a cloud moves around a mountain.  It’s also crazy how a mountain can make a cloud look so small that it looks like someone’s breath on a frosty morning.  On the train, the clouds around the mountains looked like a thin veil, separating us from the peaks, and the mottled blue and gray skies high above our heads.  I have been trying to come up with a way to describe the feeling that I get when I just stand and look at the mountains and clouds around them, its some sort of a fusion of breathless and speechless, and astounded and intrigued, all of that jumbled up and rolled together, yet somehow still completely at peace….

Anyway, after that brief digression, after we came down from the mountains, Elena, Chelsea and I pooled our food resources, and made dinner.  We had linguini with a nice tomato basil sauce for our primi piatti (first course), and for our contorni  (vegetable course) a vegetable medley: broccoli, cauliflower, carrots, and some little slices of sausage (and yes I do recognize that this is not a vegetable, but we threw it in the pot anyways, and it tasted just fine) Then we had some clementines for dessert.  There were some German kids using the kitchen at the same time, and I had a lot of fun just listening to them talk, even though I could not understand a single word of it. 

Thursday, Chelsea and I headed to Trent, to make a quick stop to study the Cathedral for a project for our music history class.  It was literally on the way, so we figured it would be perfect.  Since there was no where for us to store our bags, this was a very quick stop.  Then we parted ways, I was heading back to Macerata, and Chelsea was heading off to a few other cities.  When I first got on the train in Trent, it was over crowded and I couldn’t find a seat.  Luckily, many of the passengers appeared to be high school age students most likely on their way home.  After the first stop, several spots cleared and I snagged one for myself.  A few stops later, a girl got on and grabbed the empty seat across from mine, and I looked up to discover it was my friend Lindsey.  As fate would have it, she got on the same train as me, and in the same car.  We were both heading back to Macerata to enjoy the last few days of our break there.  We made it back through Bologna Centrale (much more easy to navigate when you aren’t freaking out that you are going to miss your train, but still a hassle)  But on our train out of Bologna, we were in different cars.  It was ok though, I read my book most of the way, and discovered I must have some sort of a gift for ending up on trains/busses with people that have really bad coughs… it’s a lovely addition to a long day of travel.  I also got to watch the sunset (most of the way) over the mountains, and saw a small rainbow. We got into Civitanova, and our train to Macerata had been replaced by a bus.  Goody.  However, on the  bus, we found one of our Italian Language teachers, well sort of, she teaches the level two class, I am in the level one class, and Lindsey is in level three.  But we recognized each other and chatted on the bus ride.   Small country, spontaneously finding two people you know in one day, in different cities than you live in…

So all in all, it was a lovely little trip, and now I am enjoying a little bit of me time, doing laundry, cleaning my room up, and going to edit photos like a madwoman! 

Quick Little Story to Brighten your Day…
I took a little trip to a local coffee shop the other day, and I tried to order a nice warm cup of tea.  Which would be “un tè caldo” in Italian.  The woman behind the counter looked at me and asked, “Bianco?” Which means white… I assumed this meant she only had white teas available for hot tea today, which was fine so I said sure… and she poured me a nice, tall glass of warm milk.  Which would be “latte caldo”  I was not entirely sure what to do with myself at this point, except to take the milk that I had somehow mistakenly ordered, and sit in a corner to drink it…. Which is what I did.  I have to say that on the list of things I was worried about messing up, that didn’t even register.  Oh well… :)

Saturday, October 22, 2011

Delightful Misadventures


Aloha!   I like to use that one, because like ciao, it is good for coming and going.  So this is my last little update before being a good little Michigan girl and going up north for a few days (what else are you supposed to do on a vacation anyways?)

Last night I went out to the Trattoria, a little restaurant our entire group has taken over twice on AHA sponsored dinners, and has delightful food.  The owners are awesome, quite fun, and the food is just great.  We had taglietelle with a meat sauce, and spinach ravioli with pesto, followed by home made grilled meat balls, and eggplant.  This woman makes the best eggplant I have ever tasted.  They followed with up with a simple cake with a little bit of chocolate sauce… which we all ate, but… there was fresh made tiramisu waiting at my place.  We wanted to put the ingredients to good use, and we had left over after the last time.  But this time we froze the bowl for whipping the cream… and Carlye mostly whipped it with her killer biceps.  But it was delicious, and the company was wonderful, we talked and laughed, and laughed quite a bit more.  We also had some hot chocolate, and a few little treats from Maga Cacoa (the wickedly delicious place down the street)… bottom line is we were stuffed, but we called it a night pretty early by Italian standards, because we all had pretty early days to begin our mid-semester break travels.    Because I will be gone for the next few days, and I plan to have lots to tell you when I return, here is an entertaining (hopefully) synopsis of today, because it was exciting.

Cataloguing the Delightful Misadventures of Day One.

Kudos to my dear cousin Tanis for providing me with word to describe the moments when travel does not follow the anticipated pattern…

Day one: the original plan: Wake up, walk to bus station, and go to Perugia for the tail end of Chocolate festival and look for a sister city sign to take a cheesy touristy picture by, because well it is a sister city to Grand Rapids. 

Day One: Reality.

First Misadventure- this one I took solo.  I was taking the elevator down to the Gardens (aka bypassing trying to scale the city walls at 7:30 AM) Whilst on the elevator, the elevator began to shake… not just a little, but a lot.  I was very scared that things were going to go quite badly there, but the elevator finished going down the level and a half and the door opened, we were alive.

I managed to avoid a second misadventure for a moment, because I successfully found the bus station (I have not been to this particular one since our walking tours with Filiberto)

2nd Misadventure- Met up with Chelsea in the bus station that was crawling with Italian high school students and just people in general.  We stood in line to buy our tickets… and then were told that the bus for Perugia was full.  Well then, so much for the chocolate.  So, we paused, regrouped, and decided to go to Civitanova Alta, where I could see Enrico Cecchetti’s house, so it was off to the train station.

3rd Misadventure- We bought our train tickets for Civitanova Marche (same city, but C. Marche is the more modern coastal city, and C. Alta is the hill town).  It was now about 8:15.  While in line for the tickets we bumped into Filiberto who was buying a paper, and he almost offered us a ride, but realized that he didn’t quite have time if he wanted to make it to his meeting on time… but that was just fine.  Tickets in hand, we walk into the lobby to check train times, one was leaving at 8:21, which was the current time, we saw a train on the tracks and ran to it, and thankfully asked the conductor where it was headed… not Civitanova, he told us there was a bus going to Civitanova…so we ran back to the front of the train station to catch the bus… but it wasn’t there, there was abus for Ancona, but not one for Civitanova.  Thoroughly confused, a little frustrated and winded, we decided it was time for cappuccinos and croissants while we waited for the next train in an hour. 

While waiting we bumped into Brian, who was also going to Civitanova, but only passing through to get to another city.  We waited together, and then the time for the train was very near… and it was a bus.  So we hopped on, and finally made it to Civitanova.

Saturday is market day in Civitanova Marche, so we wandered around there for a while, then sat to eat our lunches. 

4th Misadventure- Then it was time to get to C. Alta, so we went to the train station to ask about buses.  We bought our bus tickets, and asked about where to find the “house of Enrico Cecchetti,” which according to Filiberto is like a museum.  The man at the train station drew us a little map… and it seemed simple enough…

So we go to the bus stop, several buses pass and we ask the driver if they are going to C. Alta… none of them were, we had neglected to ask the man at the station when one was coming, but thought we had determined that there should be one soon based on the schedule posted at the stop.  Meanwhile, it was cold.  Finally, a woman standing near us takes notice of our failure to find the right bus, and tells us she is going to the same place and there should be a bus in 5 minutes.  Excellent.  However, that bus drove right past the stop.  15 minutes after that one, another arrived, the correct bus, and it stopped. 

In other news- an older Italian woman who was also waiting for the same bus thought that we were Polish.  I have now been mistaken for Polish and German. (and Italian once!)  But I have also been straight up called out for being American, some times you just don't blend as well as you would hope.

The 5th- We set out on our quest… found a set of really, really steep stairs where the walls must have been expanded.  And made it to what we thought was the piazza from the drawing done by the guy we bought our bus tickets from… but we couldn’t find anything.  We wandered some more… but carefully because we didn’t have a map to help us back to the bus stop.

After a bit, I decided to go into a hairdresser’s shop to ask for directions.  Apparently my accent is thicker than I thought… and they thought I was asking about a specific person, who they both seemed to know… but that was not the case.  After a couple minutes of me trying to convey to them I was not trying to visit a friend, they directed me back to the same piazza to ask for more directions at the little café. 

6th- The man at the little café also did not really get what I was asking… and I was not entirely sure what I was asking, considering I was not planning on taking this particular adventure today, I had made no preparatory efforts.  So he directed us to another office across the piazza, and said that a red haired man would help us there… That office was the police station.  It was closed for the afternoon.  But for some reason, I feel as though even if it had not been… I might not have tried that option. 

7th-At this point, we relinquished our quest to the cold and the language barrier, and made our way back to where we hoped to find the bus again.  Not much was open, because it was mid afternoon at this point, riposo. There was a café open though.  And we asked the girl there when the next bus for C. Marche was coming… after some broken back and forth, we managed to devise that it would be within half an hour, and that it was just across this piazza.  We walked across and sat, and a few minutes later, the bus pulled up on the other side.  So we made a mad dash across (about 50 feet) and bounded onto the bus…which proceeded to make a three point turn in the piazza and stop again to open its doors at the stop where we were sitting a mere moment ago.  Brilliant. 

The bus did get us successfully back to Civitanova Marche, where we walked into the train station, and pretty much directly onto the train, which got us successfully back to Macerata.  We went to Chelsea’s, drank tea with milk and sugar, watched step up, and ate some left over pasta.  Then I headed home to pack, and do some fridge clean out for myself and all that jazz.

Off to Bolzano in the morning!!!!!   Sense of humor, flexibility and patience in tact. 

Wednesday, October 19, 2011

RIDE ON THE MAGIC SCHOOL BUS!!! Take 2

So apparently, when I attempted to post this earlier in the week, the internet decided not to display it in all corners of the world wide web where I have readership... So here we go again, if this is a duplicate for some of you, I'm sorry, you can stop reading 2 minutes ago ;-) Fingers crossed!!!!

Yes, I am a 90’s child to the core… but some things can’t be helped.  So, when we go on our weekly excursions, we usually take a bus, a nice charter bus, not a school bus, but this week, I just kept feeling like we were on the magic school bus, but instead of Mrs. Frizzle, we have Mr. Feeny (my apologies to those of you that don’t understand those references…but basically it means that even a bus ride can be awesome…)
Our “Mr. Feeny” is Filiberto, he knows so much, and we feel like we have known him forever, and it is hard to picture our lives without him around…   He is also hilarious.  He uses a lot of puns (very difficult to do when English is not your first language, but he definitely does)  and also throws random things out like “We do have pretty good Chinese food here, but its not authentic because we have different local ingredients, for example we don’t have dragon in this country.”  So he sits in the front of the bus explaining the sites as we pass them, this Friday we passed Lake Michigan (a lake caused by a dam in a river)  and Lake Superior, same source, just “higher”… Because we leave quite early in the morning, many people are asleep for these lovely little moments, but because I struggle to sleep on buses/moving vehicles in general, I am usually up to hear them.
Our destination Friday was Assisi, and I was thrilled.  I am already making plans to go back.  Since I have been here, I have become very interested in the life and work of Saint Francis of Assisi, so obviously I was excited to visit his hometown.  Assisi is a beautiful city, classically picturesque Italy.  We spent most of our time in the Basilica di San Francesco, which actually has two churches built one on top of the other, and it is built from the stone of Mount Subasio.  These stones are pink and white, which makes the façade quite striking.  Sadly however, the Basilica does not allow for pictures, so I only got a few shots from the outside.  But I did walk around with my sketchbook in hand and sketched several things I found interesting.  I really enjoy sketching while we are on excursions, but it does make it a little difficult when the group keeps moving and I am still sketching. 
The Basilica was full of wonderful pointed arches and barrel vaults, the ceilings of which were all painted.  Quite often the sails (pie like sections in the ceiling of a barrel vault) are painted with stars, or other celestial images.  Over time the blue pigment used for the backgrounds decays, but it leaves this interesting mottled mix of dark and light blues.  I think it is even lovelier than the few that have kept their even coloring.  Some sails are painted with scenes of saints, disciples, angels, and other things, and it has been interesting to see how the artists deal with the challenges of working on a curved plain above their audience’s heads.  Quite often, especially with paintings of buildings, they end up looking quite fanciful more like something out of a pop-up fairytale book than the ceiling of a gorgeous Italian church.  
From the Basilica of San Francesco, we walked to the Cathedral of San Ruffino, which was once the Temple of Minerva, in the Roman times.  Its original Roman pillars are still standing in the front.  It was another reminder of how young America is… as I stepped through a threshold that\ could claim millennia for its age, not centuries. 
After some free time for lunch and shopping (Assisi has some awesome shops, lots of things made with olive wood, which is gorgeous stuff) we got back on the bus to go to the caves… and when I say caves, I mean expansive limestone caverns inside of a mountain.  The caves were discovered about 40 years ago (September 27, 1971) by a group of kids ages 16-21 that were doing some volunteer research in the mountains…
In an effort to protect these gorgeous caves, photography was once again disallowed… However, my friend Chelsea and I did procure the tourist photo by the Giants, a cluster of several stalagmites that are the biggest in the caves.  And I took some picutres of the tourist brochure they gave us… so you will just have to take my word for how amazing they are.  What makes them unique is partially the pure whiteness of the stone,  and they are very artfully lit so that you feel like the whole room is glowing.  It kind of reminded me of Narnia, this otherworldly winter wonderland…except that instead of fantastic snow formations, this was mineral deposits formed by millions of years of gentle drops of water. 
Friday, I got the chance to talk to a couple of friends via Skype IM (the signal for internet in my room isn’t strong enough to video chat, but it is in other parts of the apartment) But it was lovely to get updates on life in the U. S. of A.
Saturday, I slept in, but had the intention to be very productive with my day, as we are approaching midterms week.  Lisa came over, and we were going to study at the library after running a quick errand… well, we chatted, ran our errand and made it to the library just before it closed.  So then we went back to the apartment, ate munch and chatted until about 4… so much for all that productivity, but it was much more fun.   Then Saturday night, Erin and I made cookies (Miss Deb style, because they require half the butter, and butter isn’t the cheapest ingredient…)  But I would like to announce that I could recall from memory, appropriate denominations of (nearly) all ingredients in the oatmeal chocolate chip recipe from the “Dutch” cookbook that I grew up with.  I was off by a half of a teaspoon of baking soda, and I could only ball park flour as 1.5-2 cups (it’s a cup and ¾) so yes, I am just that good.
The cookie making process was just delightful.  Erin and I put on some music and danced around the kitchen.  Despite my excellent memory for the ingredient list, and ability to directly quote the instructions…we ended up guessing on several measeurments, because we only have one measuring cup (and it is for 1 cup), and no measuring spoons… so a lot of it was just…that’ll do…  But the dough was delicious, and thanks to the timing of our little escapade, pretty much dinner.  We made the cookies and sampled the finished product the moment they were not going to cause any damage to our mouths.  We brought a cookie to Carlye as well, because she loves cooking, but is not as big of a fan of baking.  They turned out a bit more crunchy than normal (probably do to oven, altitude, and imprecise measurements…) but our brown sugar has such large grains that they didn’t fully dissolve, and kind of gave a similar effect to a smash’em cookie. 
This past Wednesday, I also did my first cooking class with Marc and Gina, our professors from U of O.  I learned how to make Spaghetti al Tono (that’s tuna, by the way)  And at this point I can say that my opinion of fish has not really changed… still not a fan, but I did step out and try it!  Since I have been here, I have had tuna 3 times, and shrimp once, I believe that is a greater frequency of eating swimming things than has ever occurred in my life…
Anyway, embarking into midterms week, so I should probably think about studying some more... 
Still basically a week behind on photos... but here is the facebook link :)
http://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.10150850802525705.739869.703125704&type=1&l=c34b564dd9

Monday, October 17, 2011

RIDE ON THE MAGIC SCHOOL BUS!!!

 Yes, I am a 90’s child to the core… but some things can’t be helped.  So, when we go on our weekly excursions, we usually take a bus, a nice charter bus, not a school bus, but this week, I just kept feeling like we were on the magic school bus, but instead of Mrs. Frizzle, we have Mr. Feeny (my apologies to those of you that don’t understand those references…but basically it means that even a bus ride can be awesome…)
Our “Mr. Feeny” is Filiberto, he knows so much, and we feel like we have known him forever, and it is hard to picture our lives without him around…   He is also hilarious.  He uses a lot of puns (very difficult to do when English is not your first language, but he definitely does)  and also throws random things out like “We do have pretty good Chinese food here, but its not authentic because we have different local ingredients, for example we don’t have dragon in this country.”  So he sits in the front of the bus explaining the sites as we pass them, this Friday we passed Lake Michigan (a lake caused by a dam in a river)  and Lake Superior, same source, just “higher”… Because we leave quite early in the morning, many people are asleep for these lovely little moments, but because I struggle to sleep on buses/moving vehicles in general, I am usually up to hear them.
Our destination Friday was Assisi, and I was thrilled.  I am already making plans to go back.  Since I have been here, I have become very interested in the life and work of Saint Francis of Assisi, so obviously I was excited to visit his hometown.  Assisi is a beautiful city, classically picturesque Italy.  We spent most of our time in the Basilica di San Francesco, which actually has two churches built one on top of the other, and it is built from the stone of Mount Subasio.  These stones are pink and white, which makes the façade quite striking.  Sadly however, the Basilica does not allow for pictures, so I only got a few shots from the outside.  But I did walk around with my sketchbook in hand and sketched several things I found interesting.  I really enjoy sketching while we are on excursions, but it does make it a little difficult when the group keeps moving and I am still sketching. 
The Basilica was full of wonderful pointed arches and barrel vaults, the ceilings of which were all painted.  Quite often the sails (pie like sections in the ceiling of a barrel vault) are painted with stars, or other celestial images.  Over time the blue pigment used for the backgrounds decays, but it leaves this interesting mottled mix of dark and light blues.  I think it is even lovelier than the few that have kept their even coloring.  Some sails are painted with scenes of saints, disciples, angels, and other things, and it has been interesting to see how the artists deal with the challenges of working on a curved plain above their audience’s heads.  Quite often, especially with paintings of buildings, they end up looking quite fanciful more like something out of a pop-up fairytale book than the ceiling of a gorgeous Italian church.  
From the Basilica of San Francesco, we walked to the Cathedral of San Ruffino, which was once the Temple of Minerva, in the Roman times.  Its original Roman pillars are still standing in the front.  It was another reminder of how young America is… as I stepped through a threshold that\ could claim millennia for its age, not centuries. 
After some free time for lunch and shopping (Assisi has some awesome shops, lots of things made with olive wood, which is gorgeous stuff) we got back on the bus to go to the caves… and when I say caves, I mean expansive limestone caverns inside of a mountain.  The caves were discovered about 40 years ago (September 27, 1971) by a group of kids ages 16-21 that were doing some volunteer research in the mountains…
In an effort to protect these gorgeous caves, photography was once again disallowed… However, my friend Chelsea and I did procure the tourist photo by the Giants, a cluster of several stalagmites that are the biggest in the caves.  And I took some picutres of the tourist brochure they gave us… so you will just have to take my word for how amazing they are.  What makes them unique is partially the pure whiteness of the stone,  and they are very artfully lit so that you feel like the whole room is glowing.  It kind of reminded me of Narnia, this otherworldly winter wonderland…except that instead of fantastic snow formations, this was mineral deposits formed by millions of years of gentle drops of water. 
Friday, I got the chance to talk to a couple of friends via Skype IM (the signal for internet in my room isn’t strong enough to video chat, but it is in other parts of the apartment) But it was lovely to get updates on life in the U. S. of A.
Saturday, I slept in, but had the intention to be very productive with my day, as we are approaching midterms week.  Lisa came over, and we were going to study at the library after running a quick errand… well, we chatted, ran our errand and made it to the library just before it closed.  So then we went back to the apartment, ate munch and chatted until about 4… so much for all that productivity, but it was much more fun.   Then Saturday night, Erin and I made cookies (Miss Deb style, because they require half the butter, and butter isn’t the cheapest ingredient…)  But I would like to announce that I could recall from memory, appropriate denominations of (nearly) all ingredients in the oatmeal chocolate chip recipe from the “Dutch” cookbook that I grew up with.  I was off by a half of a teaspoon of baking soda, and I could only ball park flour as 1.5-2 cups (it’s a cup and ¾) so yes, I am just that good.
The cookie making process was just delightful.  Erin and I put on some music and danced around the kitchen.  Despite my excellent memory for the ingredient list, and ability to directly quote the instructions…we ended up guessing on several measeurments, because we only have one measuring cup (and it is for 1 cup), and no measuring spoons… so a lot of it was just…that’ll do…  But the dough was delicious, and thanks to the timing of our little escapade, pretty much dinner.  We made the cookies and sampled the finished product the moment they were not going to cause any damage to our mouths.  We brought a cookie to Carlye as well, because she loves cooking, but is not as big of a fan of baking.  They turned out a bit more crunchy than normal (probably do to oven, altitude, and imprecise measurements…) but our brown sugar has such large grains that they didn’t fully dissolve, and kind of gave a similar effect to a smash’em cookie. 
This past Wednesday, I also did my first cooking class with Marc and Gina, our professors from U of O.  I learned how to make Spaghetti al Tono (that’s tuna, by the way)  And at this point I can say that my opinion of fish has not really changed… still not a fan, but I did step out and try it!  Since I have been here, I have had tuna 3 times, and shrimp once, I believe that is a greater frequency of eating swimming things than has ever occurred in my life…
Anyway, embarking into midterms week, so I should probably think about studying some more... 
Still basically a week behind on photos... but here is the facebook link :)
http://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.10150850802525705.739869.703125704&type=1&l=c34b564dd9